NORTH WEST VIETNAM
4 days, 4 nights.

Day 1: Hanoi - Mai Chau - Moc Chau. ~230 km, ~9 h.

Once out of the Red River Delta, which brims with traditional farming activity, we pass through limestone monoliths and into foothills populated by Muong people. We head straight at the main range before breaching a high and beautiful forested pass, which descends into the hidden valley of Mai Chau where we have lunch in a traditional White Thai stilt house in Pom Coong village. Then ride to Moc Chau plateau and stop in Moc Chau for the night.

Day 2: Moc Chau - Son La - Tuan Giao. ~185 km, ~8 h.

On good road looking high over distant mountains we head up into a forested region populated by H'mong people before descending into a mountainous tea-growing region. Soon after we follow a long valley floor covered in a sea of rice surrounded by Black White Thai villages all the way to Son La with its bargain-filled market.

Day 3: Tuan Giao - Lai Chau - Tam Duong. ~200 km, ~10 h.

15 passes. The most demanding and remote section of the drive takes us upstream along the left side of a Black River tributary through forest on a bumpy dirt road past isolated pockets of Tay, White Thai, H'mong and Man peoples before breaching a pass to enter the Tam Duong plain which is covered in shark's teeth like limestone karst.

Day 4: Tam Duong - Sapa - Hanoi. ~92 km, ~3 h.

Tam Duong market in the morning. There are colourful Montargnard groups living in Tam Duong: Black H'mong and Dzao. ~10 am: beautiful drive at slow pace on bumpy road to Sapa. We will have a big breakfast because there is nothing to eat on the way, just us with the wildness.

Go by train back to Hanoi at 7 pm. Arrive Hanoi at 4.30 am on the following day.

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